My textbooks refer to this region as the Cradle of Civilization. In its present state, the country famous for its centuries of advancements is a bit sad, considering. Cairo is a huge, sprawling city: originally planned to hold two million people, it houses ten times that. The smog is horrid; residents habituate themselves to the smoky haze constantly covering the city, and I suffered from a two-month long “smoker’s cough” due solely to Cairo’s pollution.
Some might deem the place uncivilized, simply because of the missing crosswalks, broken-up sidewalks and garbage-filled streets. That’s right; in a city of 20 million, there are no crosswalks to be found.
One of the first lessons I learned after arriving in Cairo my peers and I like to call “walking like an Egyptian.” This activity has nothing to do with the hieroglyphic-type poses and head bobbing one might associate with a Cleopatra music video, but a more serious and possibly life-threatening activity: crossing the street.
Considering that most main streets in Cairo are marked as eight lanes wide, and Egyptian drivers create up to twice that many lanes, crossing the street is quite hazardous – especially for naïve Americans unaware of Egyptian street-crossing etiquette. We eventually learned the basics to crossing the streets, but even with this knowledge we found ourselves waiting ten minutes just to find the first clear lane!
Thanks to some expert guidance by our interns, we discovered the foolproof way of getting across without waiting half an hour for a clear road: find a nearby Egyptian also waiting to cross and follow his lead. Miraculously, the street seemed to open up before the locals, like the Red Sea before Moses’ staff. If they made it halfway across and then encountered unending traffic, they simply stood in the middle of a lane, waiting for another break in traffic. Egyptian drivers, accustomed to this strange phenomenon, simply swerved around the pedestrians and continued on their way. Scared to death but determined to cross, we trusted our own safety to random Egyptians who pitied us, showing us a way.
Since my arrival home three months ago, re-adjustment to life in the wealthy and consumer-driven States has proven slow and complicated at times. The journey home – extended to 80 hours by missed flights and weather delays – the subsequent adaptation to American culture and the process of learning which direction to go next have reminded me of crossing the street, Egyptian style.
From where I stand, it seems impossible to make it across all those lines of traffic with no guide or light, but slowly and surely I put one step in front of the other, sometimes hesitating as another obstacle passes, sometimes sprinting to the median. Scared to death but determined to cross, I find all the complicated and unconventional process is worth it when I put my trust in the Lord, a knowing and righteous guide even through the most hazardous of places:
“And the Lord will . . . make a way to cross on foot. Surely God is my salvation; I will trust, and will not be afraid” (Isa. 11:1, 12:2 NRSV).
© 2008, Amanda K. Brunt. All rights reserved.
Amanda K. Brunt is the daughter of regular Perspective columnist,